25 December 2024
There's something about surfing that goes beyond the waves. It’s not just a sport; it’s a way of life. Whether you're a seasoned surfer or someone who's never touched a board, surfing documentaries have the ability to inspire, mesmerize, and make you want to pack your bags and head to the nearest coast.
From tales of legendary surfers to the exploration of the most dangerous and beautiful surf spots on the globe, these films capture the essence of surfing culture. So grab your popcorn, because we’re diving into a list of the best surfing documentaries you absolutely need to watch.
1. Riding Giants (2004)
Let’s kick things off with a classic. If you’re a fan of surf culture, this is the documentary that’s going to get your blood pumping. Directed by Stacy Peralta, Riding Giants takes us deep into the history and culture of big wave surfing.The film doesn’t just scratch the surface (pun intended); it dives deep into the lives of the pioneers who charged massive waves before modern surfboards existed. With interviews from legends like Laird Hamilton and Greg Noll, it’s a must-watch for understanding the evolution of surfing.
You’ll be on the edge of your seat as you watch surfers tackle monstrous waves, many of which seem impossible to ride. And yes, you’ll probably be questioning their sanity, but that’s the beauty of it.
Why Watch It?
- Chronicles the history of big wave surfing.- Features iconic surfers and their groundbreaking moments.
- Stunning cinematography that makes you feel like you’re in the ocean.
2. Step Into Liquid (2003)
If you’re looking for a feel-good documentary that showcases the diversity of surfing, Step Into Liquid is your go-to. Directed by Dana Brown (son of famed surf filmmaker Bruce Brown), this film captures the joy of surfing from all corners of the globe.It doesn’t focus solely on the pros, which is refreshing. Instead, it highlights amateur surfers, families, and even people in unexpected locations like the Great Lakes. Yes, people actually surf there! The documentary is a celebration of surfing as a universal sport, something people of all ages and backgrounds can enjoy.
Why Watch It?
- Celebrates surfing on a global scale.- Features ordinary people alongside professional surfers.
- Explores unique surf spots from around the world.
3. The Endless Summer (1966)
No list of surfing documentaries would be complete without mentioning The Endless Summer. This is the granddaddy of all surf films. Directed by Bruce Brown, it follows two surfers, Mike Hynson and Robert August, as they travel across the globe in search of the perfect wave.What makes this documentary stand out is its simple premise. It’s just two guys, their boards, and an endless pursuit of waves. But it’s not just about surfing; it’s about the journey, the cultures they encounter, and the friendships they form along the way. The film’s laid-back vibe and sun-soaked scenes will make you want to quit your job and chase waves all over the world.
Why Watch It?
- A timeless classic that captures the essence of surf culture.- Beautifully shot, considering its time.
- Inspires a sense of adventure and wanderlust.
4. Momentum Generation (2018)
If you want to understand the modern surfing landscape, Momentum Generation is a documentary you can’t miss. Directed by Jeff and Michael Zimbalist, this film tells the story of a group of young surfers who revolutionized the sport in the 1990s.These surfers, including legends like Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, and Shane Dorian, were part of a tight-knit group that pushed the boundaries of what was possible on a surfboard. The documentary delves into their friendship, their fierce competition, and the emotional toll that came with being at the top of their game.
It’s a rare, behind-the-scenes look at the personal lives of surfers who became household names. And trust me, even if you’re not a hardcore fan, you’ll be rooting for these guys by the end.
Why Watch It?
- An emotional and intimate look at surfing's biggest names.- Chronicles the rise of modern surfing.
- Highlights the balance between friendship and competition.
5. Fishpeople (2017)
While many surf documentaries focus on the competitive side of the sport, Fishpeople takes a different approach. Directed by Keith Malloy, this film is all about the people who live their lives in the water, not just surfers, but also divers, fishermen, and swimmers.The documentary explores how the ocean shapes their lives and how being in the water brings a sense of peace and purpose. It’s a more meditative film, focusing on the deep connection between humans and the sea. If you’re looking for something that’ll make you reflect on your own connection to nature, Fishpeople is worth a watch.
Why Watch It?
- A unique take on ocean life, beyond surfing.- Beautifully shot and deeply moving.
- Focuses on the human connection to the sea.
6. Bustin' Down the Door (2008)
Set in the 1970s, Bustin' Down the Door tells the story of a group of young Australian and South African surfers who came to Hawaii and changed the sport forever. But it wasn’t just smooth sailing. These surfers—like Rabbit Bartholomew and Shaun Tomson—faced resistance from the local Hawaiian surf community, leading to tension and even violence.This documentary is a gripping tale of ambition, rivalry, and the clash of cultures. It ultimately shows how these surfers helped to elevate surfing into a professional sport. If you’re into stories about underdogs and trailblazers, this one’s for you.
Why Watch It?
- A fascinating look at the rise of professional surfing.- Explores the cultural tensions within the surf world.
- Features legendary surfers who changed the game.
7. North of the Sun (2012)
If you think surfing is only a warm-weather sport, North of the Sun will change your mind. This Norwegian documentary follows two surfers, Inge Wegge and Jørn Ranum, as they spend nine months living in a remote, frozen bay on the coast of Norway.Despite the freezing temperatures, they build a cabin from driftwood and other materials they find on the beach, and surf the frigid Arctic waves. The film is a testament to the power of perseverance and the beauty of simple living, all while capturing some of the most stunning and unexpected surf footage you’ll ever see.
Why Watch It?
- Proves surfing isn’t just for tropical climates.- Highlights the simplicity and beauty of living off the grid.
- Stunning cinematography in an unexpected location.
8. Under an Arctic Sky (2017)
Speaking of cold water surfing, Under an Arctic Sky is another documentary that takes you to the edge of the world. Directed by surf photographer Chris Burkard, this film follows a group of surfers as they journey to Iceland in search of waves, battling some of the harshest conditions imaginable.What sets this film apart is its breathtaking cinematography. The contrast between the icy landscapes and the surfers riding waves under the northern lights is nothing short of magical.
If nature documentaries are your thing, this one will blow you away, combining the thrill of surfing with the raw beauty of Iceland’s wilderness.
Why Watch It?
- Jaw-dropping visuals of surfers taking on icy waves.- A perfect mix of adventure and nature documentary.
- Captures the awe-inspiring landscapes of Iceland.
9. Resurface (2017)
Let’s take a moment to step away from the adrenaline of big waves and freezing waters. Resurface is a short but powerful documentary that shows how surfing can heal. The film tells the story of veterans suffering from PTSD who find peace and purpose through surfing.This documentary is a reminder that surfing can be more than just a sport. For many, it’s a form of therapy, a way to reconnect with life and heal from trauma. It’s emotional, inspiring, and a testament to the power of the ocean.
Why Watch It?
- An uplifting story about the healing power of surfing.- Sheds light on the struggles of veterans and PTSD.
- Inspires gratitude and a deeper respect for the ocean.
10. Kissed by God (2018)
Rounding out our list is Kissed by God, a deeply emotional documentary about the life of three-time world champion surfer Andy Irons. Directed by Todd and Steve Jones, the film dives into Irons' battle with bipolar disorder and addiction, while also celebrating his incredible surfing career.This isn’t your typical surf documentary. It’s raw, honest, and heartbreaking, showing the darker side of surfing’s glamorous image. At the same time, it’s a tribute to Irons' immense talent and the legacy he left behind.
Why Watch It?
- A raw and emotional look at mental health in sports.- Celebrates the life and achievements of Andy Irons.
- A powerful reminder that even champions struggle.
Dolores Benson
Surfing documentaries capture the sport's soul, showcasing the struggles, triumphs, and passion of surfers. Each film offers a unique perspective on wave riding.
January 17, 2025 at 12:26 PM